Simone Rocha’s Fashion Show Redefines Femininity at London Fashion Week

LONDON, England — Irish-born designer Simone Rocha captivated audiences at London Fashion Week this weekend with a show that stood out among the event’s established brands and emerging talents. Held at Goldsmiths’ Hall, the majestic home of London’s goldsmith guild, Rocha’s Sunday afternoon presentation featured notable figures from the fashion and entertainment industries, including Alexa Chung and actors Fiona Shaw and Andrea Riseborough, who walked the runway alongside models.

Rocha, whose label was founded in 2010, is known for her distinctive aesthetic that combines feminine elements — including bows, frills, and lace — with serious artistic references. The collection showcased a variety of garments, from tailored pieces to evening wear, as well as playful items inspired by the fable “The Tortoise and the Hare,” featuring models carrying plush toys. Rocha noted, “I want everything to feel very present, like this is the only time this could happen.”

The designer’s reputation has grown significantly, attracting a devoted fan base that includes artist Laila Gohar and playwright Jeremy O. Harris. Fashion analyst Mandy Lee, who ran a TikTok account called Old Loser in Brooklyn, was recently married in Rocha’s designs. “It’s incredible for me to be able to dress someone who is so talented in their own field,” Rocha said when discussing her celebrity clientele.

Despite the luxury associated with her brand—most items priced above £200—Rocha’s influence is evident across the fashion spectrum, with her signature bows becoming a widely embraced trend. “Oh, it’s fantastic. I love that the aesthetic of being feminine or flirtatious or playful can still feel grounded in reality,” she noted.

Amid global conversations about women’s rights and traditional gender roles, Rocha’s work has sparked dialogue around femininity as a form of rebellion. She stated, “I see [them] as a layer of protection and a layer of defiance.” As fashion trends evolve, Rocha’s garments increasingly reflect a modern interpretation of identity and expression.

Her client roster has expanded to include a notable menswear line, launched in 2023, catering to those challenging conventional masculinity. Actors like Paul Mescal have embraced Rocha’s designs, wearing them to notable events such as the SAG Awards. “I think people feel powerful dressing today by being themselves,” Rocha commented, reflecting on the changing cultural landscape.

Rocha’s clothing is found in high-end retailers like Dover Street Market and Selfridges, with demand surging. The brand’s turnover has experienced double-digit growth over the past five years, highlighting the success of her menswear launch, which has doubled in sales within two years.

The designer is also recognized for her successful collaborations, including a sell-out collection with H&M, which she described as “a no-brainer.” As someone who once stood in line for major collaborations herself, Rocha expressed joy at seeing a new generation excited about her work.

Rocha remains grounded in her vision despite the industry’s volatility, where many designers face quick turnover in creative director roles. “I want to do what I do, and do it very well, and I am very lucky to do it for myself,” she explained. Known for embedding personal heritage in her designs, she draws on her Irish and Chinese roots to shape her collections. “Some collections are very autobiographical,” she added.

As Rocha’s influence continues to grow, both at London Fashion Week and beyond, her creations appear poised to resonate in the upcoming Academy Awards, where actors may further embrace her signature style as a subtle act of defiance within an ever-changing sociopolitical landscape. The intersection of fashion and individual identity is likely to take center stage, showcasing Rocha’s belief in clothing as a powerful form of self-expression.