Couscous and Migration: Ties Between Sicily and Tunisia

MARSALA, Sicily — On a steamy afternoon in late summer, the city of Marsala pulsates with the fragrant aroma of fish broth and spices, signaling the weekly tradition of couscous among its residents. This culinary delight, which hails from Tunisia, reflects the historical ties between Sicily and its North African neighbor, now overshadowed by contemporary migration issues.

Sicilians like Rosa Maria Pugliese, who was born in Tunisia to Italian immigrants, discuss the shared history that has shaped both cultures. ‘I always wondered why no one questioned the prevalence of couscous here,’ Pugliese said, kneading semolina in her sun-soaked kitchen. ‘It’s essential to remember our past, as many of us were once migrants seeking a better life.’

In recent years, Sicily has become a focal point of Mediterranean migration, serving as a landing destination for approximately half a million migrants seeking asylum. According to the International Organization for Migration, the number of irregular arrivals from Tunisia peaked with over 97,000 migrants in 2023. The Italian government, led by Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni, has taken a hard stance on these arrivals, often scrutinizing and denying visas to many Tunisians.

While the current narrative emphasizes the overwhelming influx of migrants, historians like William Granara from Harvard University argue for a reconsideration of the shared history that links Sicilians and Tunisians. The Mediterranean has long been a corridor for cultural exchange, influencing cuisine, language, and community.

Historically, many Sicilians migrated to Tunisia in the late 19th century during waves of emigration caused by poverty and conflict back home. By 1925, Sicilians accounted for a sizeable part of the Italian community in Tunisia, contributing to the country’s growth with their skills and culture.

However, post-independence from French rule in 1956, many Italians felt unwelcome, leading to an exodus that severed ties. Marinette Pendola, a Sicilian novelist born in Tunisia, reflects on the painful shift in perception: ‘We were regarded as strangers in a home we once belonged to.’

To address this fading narrative, Francesco Tranchida founded the Marsalese Memory Bank to document the experiences of Sicilians in Tunisia. This initiative aims to connect generations and preserve the cultural heritage that has shaped both sides.

Today, the relationship between Sicilians and Tunisians continues to evolve as the memory of their shared history highlights the need for empathy in the current anti-migration climate. ‘Understanding our past can help us see migrants in a different light,’ Benabdallah said. ‘We were once the ones welcoming those in search of a better life.’