Enoteca Maria: A Restaurant Where Grandmothers Cook and Share Culture

STATEN ISLAND, N.Y. — Steps from the ferry terminal in the Staten Island borough of New York City, Enoteca Maria stands out as a unique restaurant where the chefs are grandmothers from around the world. The establishment is featured in a new Netflix movie titled Nonnas, which releases on May 9.

Enoteca Maria was founded in 2007 by Jody “Joe” Scaravella, 69, as a tribute to the Italian women who inspired his love for cooking: his grandmother Domenica and his mother Maria, after whom the restaurant is named. The film portrays Scaravella’s journey from transportation worker to restaurant owner, showcasing the contributions of the senior women who share their family recipes.

Sitting with Scaravella over espresso, he warmly describes the restaurant’s atmosphere decorated with superhero figures and a portrait of his grandmother. “This is not a restaurant,” he says. “It’s a cultural exchange.” Initially focused on Italian cuisine, the menu has evolved to include dishes from various cultures, such as Mexican and Greek, all prepared by grandmothers who draw from their culinary heritage.

Scaravella explained, “These ladies are sharing what their mothers and grandmothers taught them. Every time they cook, they share a piece of their culture.” After suffering personal losses in his family, he found solace and purpose in opening Enoteca Maria and hiring real grandmothers as chefs, creating a rotating culinary team.

The grandmothers not only prepare meals but also offer cooking classes, allowing participants to learn traditional recipes firsthand. Scaravella aims to create an online community for families to post their recipes, highlighting the significance of culinary traditions.

Despite his passion for technology, Scaravella opts for traditional reservation methods and avoids delivery apps, believing that food loses value when packaged. “I’m not chasing a dollar. I’m chasing a dream,” he emphasized.

The film Nonnas features fictionalized characters inspired by the women who worked at Enoteca Maria, including a hairdresser, a nun, and friends of Scaravella’s family. Notable actresses like Susan Sarandon and Talia Shire bring these characters to life, each embarking on their journeys of rediscovery through cooking.

Scaravella’s restaurant has faced challenges, including compliance with health codes, but maintains a lively, passionate atmosphere. The spirit of his grandmother, who would reject subpar produce, lives on in the kitchen where friendly rivalries occasionally emerge among the grandmothers.

With the release of Nonnas on Netflix, Scaravella’s vision continues to inspire appreciation for cultural exchange and the warmth of family recipes, making the restaurant a beloved spot for both locals and visitors.