Bistro by Manu: A Culinary Experiment in Perception of Fine Dining

Manu Feildel, a renowned chef in the culinary world known for his appearances on television shows like “Ready Steady Cook” and “My Kitchen Rules,” embarks on a new venture with the opening of Bistro by Manu. This restaurant comes as part of a $1.5 million refurbishment of The Red Lion by its owner, Laundy Hotels. Located in a 196-year-old establishment, the bistro offers a casual yet refined dining experience with a focus on accessibility.

Despite the posh setting, with soft lighting, floral arrangements, and art reminiscent of trips to Provence, Feildel’s intention with the bistro is straightforward. As he explains to a nearby table, “I want it to be better food than you can cook at home, but not too good.” Such a statement sets the tone for the restaurant’s offerings, which are priced modestly — for instance, main courses are around $40, salads at $22, and desserts at $15.

However, maintaining an equilibrium between high-quality cuisine and affordability is not without its challenges. Some dishes, like the leek and truffle salad, fall short on seasoning, while others, such as the tarte tatin with crème fraiche or scallops gratineed with Cafe de Paris butter, are noteworthy. Feildel is present during the initial weeks, engaging with patrons, reminiscent of interactive experiences found in places like Disney World.

The bistro’s atmosphere is described as relaxed and family-friendly, fitting the vision of a French bistro accessible to a wider audience. However, not all reviews glow with praise. Experienced critics note specific areas that require attention, such as the execution of the French onion soup, which lacks the “beefy richness” traditionally expected. There are also reports of consistency issues with the butter lettuce sides and pommes dauphine that varied from visit to visit.

Despite these hiccups, some menu items hold promise, such as new additions featuring flathead en papillote and sweetcorn velouté with spanner crab. The “butcher’s cut” steak, recently a wagyu striploin, along with the confit chicken were critiqued for cooking technique, indicating potential for improvement through more precise kitchen direction.

While Bistro by Manu has some execution issues, the venture remains hopeful under the expertise of Feildel and with backing from Laundy Hotels, a group with expansive resources within the hospitality industry. With further refinement and attention to kitchen practices, Bistro by Manu aims to linger between the known and the elegant, inviting guests to a “good, but not too good” experience.