Waarsa: A Culinary Homage to Lost Awadhi Traditions

Waarsa, a new culinary venture helmed by Chef Rahul Akerkar and Chef Mukhtar Qureshi, is nestled within the heritage precinct of the National Centre for the Performing Arts (NCPA) at Nariman Point, Mumbai. The restaurant seeks to celebrate the culinary traditions of Awadh, presenting recipes that originate from the royal kitchens as well as those from the homes of cooks in the historical region. The establishment is launched by Aditya Birla New Age Hospitality, the hospitality arm of the Aditya Birla Group.

Founded in 1969 by JRD Tata and Dr. Jamshed Bhabha, the NCPA has been a cultural landmark in Mumbai, offering a platform for artists and creators across India and the world. While various eateries have operated on its premises, Waarsa stands out for its unique offerings and design, which reflect the cultural essence of Awadh.

“We’ve crafted every detail of Waarsa to reflect the essence of Awadh in a way that is both understated and elegant,” says Chef Rahul Akerkar. Chef Mukhtar Qureshi, known for his lineage to a family of Awadhi culinary experts, brings experience and reverence for tradition to the kitchen. “Awadhi food is available in many places in India,” says Qureshi, “but for me, Waarsa represents a deeply personal journey.”

The restaurant’s design, conceived by renowned architect Abha Narain Lambah, is inspired by the subtlety and classic aesthetics associated with historical buildings. The interior features pale pink walls that allow the food to take center stage.

Waarsa’s menu offers a blend of vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes, showcasing over 30 varieties of kebabs and 13 types of bread. Signature dishes include the Raan-e-Mukhtar, a slow-cooked goat leg, and Daal Q-Man, a kid goat cooked in black masoor dal. Chef Qureshi emphasizes traditional slow-cooking methods and recommends dishes that reflect simple Awadhi home cooking.

Cocktails at Waarsa incorporate Indian spices, featuring unique creations such as ‘The Emperor’s Rose’ and ‘Summers in Agra’. The food menu includes unusual delights like Chilgoza shorba and Gucchi Biryani, alongside a variety of subtly spiced vegetarian options.

The idea of Waarsa is to explore and present the lesser-known aspects of Awadhi cuisine, steering away from its typical meat-heavy reputation. “Awadhi food can be rich and heavy, but the home-cooked variants are lighter,” notes Chef Akerkar. The menu reflects this philosophy, focusing on locally sourced ingredients, minimal use of spices, and authentic flavors that tell a story of culinary heritage.