Texas BBQ Finds a Home in Nairobi: A Taste of Home in a Distant Land

The sign hanging above my head read ‘Texas Barbeque.’ The irresistible aroma of slow-cooked meats filled the air, transporting me back home to the piney woods of East Texas. But this time, I wasn’t anywhere close to my quaint hometown. I found myself on the outskirts of Nairobi, the cosmopolitan capital of Kenya, more than 8,600 miles away.

I had been traveling through Kenya for six weeks, attempting to escape the recent breakup with my fiancée. In late August, I boarded a plane to this foreign land, seeking solace and self-discovery. Despite the distance, I longed for the flavors and comforts of home, particularly my beloved Texas-style barbecue.

To my surprise, I discovered that barbecue holds a special place in Kenyan cuisine. Known as ‘nyama choma’ in Swahili, which literally translates to ‘grilled meat,’ it has become a celebrated dish throughout the country. From Chinese take-out spots to bars, barbecue can be found on almost every menu.

Located in the working-class community of Kikuyu, just outside Nairobi, Texas Barbeque offers a 24-hour barbecue experience. It is not only a BBQ joint but also doubles as a lively late-night spot, like many other restaurants in this bustling city. Curiosity led me to this restaurant, prompted by targeted social media ads that seemed to know me better than I did. I decided to wait until nostalgia hit me, but after a month had passed, I grew tired of the local dishes and finally gave in.

I arrived at the restaurant on an ordinary Tuesday night, greeted by a bouncer stationed at the entrance. The interior lacked any Texan decor, surprising me. For about $30, I ordered the deluxe platter, which included mouthwatering brisket, chicken legs and breast, pork ribs, and a side of deep-fried bhajia. The meat was served fajita-style on a platter with sautéed onions and bell peppers, deviating from the traditional Texas barbecue fixings of white bread, pickles, beans, and potato salad.

As I indulged in the meal, I couldn’t help but notice the subtle differences from the barbecue I cherished back home. The brisket lacked the signature smoke ring, revealing that it was cooked in an oven rather than a smoker. The ribs were cooked hastily, leaving the meat clinging to the bone. However, the accompanying barbecue sauce was authentic, with a hint of apple cider vinegar. It was a tasty enough approximation.

As I savored my meal, a distinct Kenyan interpretation of Texas-style smoked sausage appeared before me. It seemed almost comical, with its pinkish-red casing neatly tied at both ends. Sliced open and loaded with diced onions and a slather of ketchup, it resembled a hot dog. Confused yet amused, I exchanged a bewildered glance with my waiter, hinting at the bittersweet nostalgia stirring within.

This trip to Kenya, in the wake of heartbreak, had brought me closer to healing. Six weeks had passed since my arrival, and I felt a semblance of wholeness. The meal at Texas Barbeque represented my final attempt in Kenya to find solace in the familiar. As I requested my leftovers to be boxed up, the thought of the stolen portions made me chuckle. Perhaps those who enjoyed my leftovers felt a sense of completeness that eluded me, but it was a small price to pay for the quest I had embarked on.

Soon, I would return to my small Texan hometown, hoping to reassemble the fragments of my life. As I packed my belongings, hunger rumbled through my stomach, reminding me of what awaited me back home. I opened my fridge in my Nairobi apartment, only to find a third of the leftovers I had expected. Unbeknownst to me, the sneaky waiter had discreetly enjoyed most of my order. I couldn’t help but laugh, for what truly awaited me back home was not merely Texas-style barbecue, but a reunion with myself. It was okay.