David Ellis Reviews Lupa: A Mixed Dining Experience

LONDON, England — David Ellis recently dined at Lupa, a new Roman-style restaurant that has captured the interest of food enthusiasts and celebrities alike. Co-founded by Ed Templeton of Carousel and actor Theo James, Lupa aims to serve ‘Roman comfort food’ under the guidance of head chef Naz Hassan.

The restaurant, located in Highbury, accommodates only 28 diners, which adds to its exclusivity. Decorated in a familiar café style, Lupa features mushroom soup walls, wood tables, and café curtains that resemble many other eateries in the area.

The menu is traditional Italian, offering dishes such as antipasti, pasta, and secondi. Hassan, known for previous work at Pidgin, has crafted a menu filled with recognizable comfort foods. However, Ellis noted that while the offerings are familiar, they may lack creativity. For example, the all’amatriciana was lackluster, described as underpowered compared to similar supermarket products.

One standout dish was the courgette flower stuffed with burrata, which Ellis enjoyed, though he found another item, the ‘carbonara,’ unexpected and not what he anticipated. The paccheri featured a rich egg yolk sauce but was overpowering with its trio of pepper.

Despite some misses, Ellis commended the chef’s ability to create tender lamb chops and delicious roast potatoes. Lupa maintains a relaxed atmosphere, which allows diners to enjoy their meals at a comfortable pace. However, he left the restaurant feeling uncertain about whether it offered a good, bad, or indifferent experience.

With time, Ellis believes Hassan may refine his offerings, but he humorously reflects on how Romulus and Remus would have struggled if they depended on Lupa for sustenance.

The cost for a meal for two is approximately £130 at 73 Highbury Park, N5 1UA.